October, 02 2024 ( Updated October, 03 2024)
Down in the heel of Italy, Lecce is less popular than Rome, Venice or Florence...which is exactly why it offers a much nicer and more authentic Italian experience!
With origins dating to the 5th Century BC, this delightful little city in the heart of Salento is full of hidden treasures, earning the title of “Florence of the South”. Lecce’s historical importance is witnessed by the impressive Roman amphitheater and other archaeological remnants located in the city center. It is also home to the perfect example of “Lecce Baroque”, a unique style of Baroque architecture that you can admire only in this Southern Italian city!
Aerial view of Piazza Sant'Oronzo, Palazzo del Seggio and the Roman amphitheatre
But it's not just history that draws travellers to Lecce. The city’s vibrant cultural life, cute little shops, winding streets and delicious local food and wine, are also some of the best in Italy!
Less hectic and more walkable than some of Italy’s better-known destinations, one of the biggest advantages of travelling in Lecce is that you can explore it at your own pace, savoring every moment. From walking tours to discovering the best places to eat and stay as well as suitable day trips, this Lecce travel guide will ensure you get the most out of your stay in and around this gem of a city.
As Lecce is a relatively small city, it is easy to get around and uncover its treasures. One of the plus points for exploring Lecce is that most of the important sites are in the Centro Storico, which is easily covered on foot. There are many guided walking tours in Lecce, depending on your interests. You can combine history with discovering street food, or focus on the city’s architecture or you can just enjoy its magic on your own.
Ruins of the Roman amphitheater in Lecce
Located in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, the amphitheater used to hold 15,000 people and is in remarkably good condition, although only a portion of it has been excavated. Many famous music and theatre events are still staged here in the summer months.
The stunning Piazza del Duomo in Lecce during sunset
Just 3 minutes’ walk from the theater is the Piazza del Duomo, considered to be one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, with impressive palaces and churches built in Pietra Leccese, the soft, pale local stone. It is home to the famous Lecce Cathedral, the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta, which is a visual feast both inside and out. The original Romanesque church was renovated in the 17th Century.
Editor’s tip: If you climb to the top of the cathedral’s 72 metres high bell tower you are rewarded with a stunning view over the city all the way to the Adriatic coast.
The facade of the Basilica of Santa Croce
Another magnificent Church that you simply must visit is the Basilica di Santa Croce which is an architectural masterpiece and took around 150 years to build. It is considered to be a perfect example of “Lecce Baroque” architecture.
Salento and Lecce have a fascinating history, going back many centuries, when it was a Greek colony. The peninsula has been ruled by the Romans, Saracens and Normans, so has a rich culture which you can discover in some of these museums.
The MUST is a riveting combination of contemporary culture with some ancient artefacts. The museum’s collection includes 20th Century sculptures and paintings, as well as free exhibitions of current local artists’ work.
The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano tells the story of Lecce’s ancient Greek roots with exhibits from 8th to 5th Century BC.
Museo Faggiano is a hidden treasure which opened in 2008. Excavations, in what was once a private house, uncovered remains dating from the 5th century BC, through Roman times and the Middle Ages up to the Renaissance. It is all on view.
Lecce may not have the fancy designer shops of Rome or Florence, instead here you can discover other, more handmade treasures in crafts, ceramics and antiques.
Sandro Riso, craftsman who continues the centuries-old tradition of papier-mâché
Puglia is famous for its papier-mâché handicrafts, known as “Cartapesta”. Claudio Riso is a master in this craft. His shop is in the heart of Lecce and one of the best places to find souvenirs. For lovers of antiques or vintage pieces, Lecce’s monthly flea market is a treasure trove. It takes place on the last Sunday of every month, on Via XX Settembre.
Traditional Italian snack from Puglia, Taralli
Liberrima is not only a bookshop but so much more. There is a delicatessen attached and here you can find the best local olive oil and wines as well as local delicacies such as taralli and frise (classic Puglian bread snacks), sweets and pasta. Liberrima also has a fantastic slow-food restaurant serving local dishes. The area around Piazza Mazzini and Via Salvatore Trinchese, is home to many stores, including fashion and souvenirs, as well as a daily street market.
Delicious Pasticciotto leccese pastries filled with egg custard cream and sour cherry jam
Editor’s tip: Recharge at Pasticceria Natale, the perfect spot to try the famous pastry from Lecce, pasticciotti Leccese, which must be accompanied by caffè leccese, iced coffee with almond milk. Then, hit the shops!
Don’t miss the Apulian olive-oil tasting
Take home some of Puglia’s famous wine. The Apollonio winery is in the town of Monteroni di Lecce just 15 minutes out of Lecce. Here you can buy some of the finest local wines, and best of all, you can try them before you buy! The area is well-known for its Primitivo red wine, which is fruity and rich. A lighter option would be the Salice Salentino Bianco, a dry white wine which goes well with fish.
Lovers of olive oil can enjoy a similar experience at the Agro Farm which is just 4km from Lecce. In addition to olive oil tasting, you can visit the olive groves and discover the process of milling the olives to create delicious organic olive oil.
No trip to Italy is complete without trying the local food and the food in Lecce is some of the best in the country.
Puglia cuisine is known as “Cucina Povera” meaning “Poor cuisine” which really does not do it justice! It is tasty home cooking using the best seasonal local ingredients. Vegetarians will love the wide range of choices. There are many excellent restaurants in the city. But if you are looking for authentic Salento dishes, Alle Due Corti is a must.
Try Ciceri e tria (fried tagliatelle with chickpeas) or Orecchiette con cime di rapa (pasta with turnip leaves and anchovies), two of the most famous dishes in Puglia. If you are inspired to try this yourself, they also run cooking classes where you can learn some of their recipes. For the best fish and seafood try L’Arte dei Sapori which serves a wide variety from the catch of the day.
Editor’s tip: For snacks, delicious Pugliese pastries or a glass of Salentino wine head to Caffè Alvino in Piazza Sant’Oronzo which caters for locals and visitors alike.
Walking down Lecce old town by night in summer
Lecce might seem like a sleepy place, especially on a summer afternoon, but the city comes alive at night.
For nightlife in Lecce there are plenty of excellent bars around the town. The stretch between Piazzetta Santa Chiara and Piazzetta Sigismondo Castromediano is particularly vibrant, with bars and street food vendors. Or try the Enoteca Mamma Elvira which has 250 wines on offer. For serious cocktails try Laurus or Prohibition which also has live music.
Relax in the lovely Anna Apartment near the centre of Lecce
If you want to experience life like a local in Lecce, then an apartment in the Centro Storico is ideal.Terra Mia in the heart of the old town sleeps up to 4 people. Or relax in Anna Apartment, an apartment for 5, which is just 15 minutes’ walk from the cathedral.
For larger groups there are some wonderful luxurious villas in Salento such as Trullo Meraviglia which can sleep 10 people and has a gorgeous garden and private pool or Lisaria Villa Delle Meraviglie which has its own pool.
If you want a fun city break, then 2 or 3 days is perfect. This will allow you to discover Lecce and get to know some of its great restaurants and bars. If you are visiting all of Salento, then 1 or 2 days in Lecce is enough. However, make sure you spend at least one night there to enjoy its vibrant nightlife. Alternatively, base yourself in Lecce and use the city as a starting point for visiting other parts of Salento, in which case you may want to stay up to a week here.
The rocky harbour beach at Santa Maria Al Bagno, Apulia
Lecce is a good base to stay if you want to explore Italy’s heel. There is certainly a lot to see. With the Adriatic coast to the east and the Ionian Sea to the west you are really spoiled for choice. San Cataldo is just 20 minutes away and has 2 wide sandy beaches. These can get busy in August, but out of season the crowds thin out. On the Ionian coast the beaches north of Gallipoli such as Lido Conchiglie and Santa Maria al Bagno are well-known as some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy.
The beautiful and historic beach town of Gallipoli is only a 30-minute drive and is steeped in history. If you want to spend more time in this beautiful town then Casa Gallipolina can sleep up to 7 people and is less than a 5-minute walk from the sea.
Winter (January - March) can be cold and many places are closed, so it is generally better to come in April when the weather starts warming up. Things heat up quite quickly and by late May and June it can be in the high 30’s.
The heat in July and August can be intense and in the first two weeks of August, around the Italian holiday of Ferragosto, the whole country seems to be on holiday, so Lecce gets very busy. September and October are quieter, more like May and June but with the advantage of a warmer sea. November is not a good time to come as it normally rains but December is charming, with good weather and festive with Christmas lights and celebrations.
On the occasion of the feast of the patron saint, Sant'Oronzo, splendid luminous decorations are installed in the historic center
Given the Pugliese people’s love of food and wine it will come as no surprise that most of the festivals focus on those, with music and dancing, obviously!
Lecce’s main festival marks its saint’s day – the Feast of Sant’Oronzo (24th – 26th August). The streets of the city are crowded with people enjoying the street food, music and fireworks. The town also organises Cortili Aperti (Open courtyards) usually at the end of May. For 1 day some of the city’s most beautiful private houses, buildings, courtyards and gardens are open to the public.
Jazz lovers will not want to miss the Locomotive Jazz Festival that takes place across the region for two weeks in late July and early August. La Notte della Taranta is the largest festival in Salento. Spread over several towns and several evenings in late August, culminating in one final concert in Melipignano, it celebrates the music traditions of Salento.
Throughout the summer visitors will always find interesting performances at Gallipoli’s Parco Gondar, one of Italy’s largest outdoor music venues.
Salento International Airport in Brindisi is just 30 minutes from Lecce. And Bari Airport, with more frequent flights, is also a good option. It is best to hire a car there or take a taxi. If you are arriving by train, then Lecce (Città) station is connected to other major Italian cities.
Lecce is one of the most charming cities in Italy and an absolute must-visit if you are looking for beautiful architecture; fascinating history; delicious food and wine and glorious beaches. Its mild climate makes it an attractive option for most of the year. A lot more than a city break, the whole of the Salento peninsula is on your doorstep. A little piece of heaven on earth!
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A tasty plate of Orecchiette con le cime di rapa 
